Before proceeding to the description of the practical device of the monastic greenhouse, let’s talk about the principle of its operation, which is based on a well-known physical phenomenon: the contact of cold with heat forms condensate. Heat is obtained as a result of decomposition of biofuels (straw, sawdust, leaves). Well, the cold is produced by a special battery, which is a capacity, filled with antifreeze or some non-freezing solution, such as salt or used engine oil.
Condensate accumulates in the moisture collector and its excess under the influence of temperature differences, begins to rise up, thereby moistening the soil and creating a powerful greenhouse effect. the temperature in the greenhouse (closed with a film or glass) is 3-5 degrees higher than in an unequipped greenhouse.
One of the main advantages of the monastery greenhouse is that the plants under this system almost do not need to be watered. The greenhouse got its name from an ancient legend, in which several centuries ago the monks of the Solovetsky monastery on the white sea grew grapes, watermelons and other heat-loving crops in such a system.
Device and principle of operation of the monastic greenhouse
Now let’s look at the device of this system in more detail. The operating mode of the monastic greenhouse is set by two condensers: minus temperature and thermal.
For a sub-zero temperature condenser, you can use almost any sealed container with a volume of about 200-300 liters. In this container, two pipes are welded (soldered) (the type of communicating vessels). Then this container is filled with antifreeze (exhaust, salt solution, etc.).
As a result of the fact that the liquid does not freeze, the external air temperature is transmitted through the pipes to the main tank and there it is accumulated in minus energy. During the winter, a sufficient supply is created that can activate the monastic greenhouse system until the end of summer.
In the spring, the external pipes are tightly closed and insulated. The condenser itself is located in the middle of the greenhouse. Above the lid of the main container, a moisture collector is constructed from large river sand, gravel and crushed stone. The thickness of such a water collector is 20-30 cm, and the diameter is up to one meter. It will take about forty buckets to fill it, which is enough to create the necessary conditions in the greenhouse.
The thermal biocapacitor is a layer of wood sawdust (20 cm thick), overlaid on top and bottom with straw insulators (5 cm thick). From the surface of the bed to the heat condenser, the distance reaches half a meter. Bioconductor placed on the boundary of topsoil and loam. If the soil is not too fertile, then the bookmark is made slightly smaller.
At a great depth, as a result of lack of oxygen, the decomposition of biomass slows down and it can last for three or four years. Then the bookmark is replaced.
It is best to build a monastic greenhouse in the summer, so that by winter it is already fully ready to” charge ” the condenser at sub-zero temperatures.
This construction is quite labor-intensive, but at the same time durable, so the Foundation for the monastery greenhouse should be made strong using reinforced concrete filling to a depth of at least 45 cm and a thickness of 20 cm. The Foundation rises 25-30 cm above the ground.
On top of the Foundation tape is placed a layer of waterproofing, and then a binding of bars 15×15 cm impregnated with antiseptic.
In spring, the soil thaws, warms up and the process of “Gorenje” of sawdust and straw begins with the release of a large amount of heat. With this greenhouse system, it is better to glass the roof to improve photosynthesis.
Approximate dimensions of the greenhouse are as follows: length-12 m; width-4.4 m; height-2.6 m. But you can naturally make them different.
For racks, slopes, jumpers and arcs, you can use a galvanized U-shaped brand. Wooden crate made of 30×50 mm timber.
The yield in such a greenhouse – in comparison with conventional greenhouses-is excellent and increases several times.